Tuesday, 13 March 2018

Pennine Way in Pictures, Part 2

Leaving Greenhead I walked up onto Blenkinsopp Common.
 

Snow during the night...temp dropped to -7c.
 

Absolutely glorious morning.
 

Blenkinsopp Common is notorious as one of the most boggy sections of the PW.
 

Everything was frozen though, so the going was good.
 

In these conditions the common became downright otherworldly...crystalline.  It was a joy to walk.
 

Burnstones viaduct.  Here I decided to just use the South Tyne trail to get to Alston.
 

Along the trail there wasn't much scope for wildcamping, so I put some extra miles in to reach Alston and another hotel.
 

Generally after 10 miles my feet begin to ache...just from the weight of the pack.  It was a relief when I eventually walked into Alston after dark.  I stayed at the Cumberland Hotel where the hospitality was great.
 

Next morning after my customary full-english I headed to Garrigill along the River South Tyne.

 
The Corpse Road up to Greg's Hut was a hard slog with the weather blowing directly into my face.  Snow drifts made walking a nightmare at times.


Ski goggles and a buff....essential kit!!  I'd have been fucked if I hadn't taken them.
 

Greg's Hut bothy, just north of the summit of Cross Fell, built in memory of John Gregory who died in a climbing accident in the Alps in 1968.

 
The bothy was great....plenty of fuel for the stove...which really pumped out some heat and warmed up the smaller back room in no time.  With some candles for light the place looked positively cosy.


Awesome stove.

 
I kept all my kit close together in one area in case anymore folks turned up.  No one did though...I had the whole place to myself!
 

Whiteout conditions next morning.
 

My trusty compass got me to the summit without any drama. 
 

Cross Fell trig point.
 

The rock stack on the south eastern side of the summit marking where the path drops down.  Weather looking like it wants to clear.
 

Battling through the snow.  Little Dun Fell ahead.
 

The scene became breathtaking upon nearing the summit.  You can't see it in the photo....but the wind blowing the snow uphill and the clouds rolling by with the sun behind.....phenomenal.  You can see it in my video.
 

The radar station on Great Dun Fell.  What a vista!  Reminds me of the planet Hoth in Empire Strikes Back. 
 

Walking in snow was a pain.  A handful of times I sunk down to my waist.  With the weight of the pack....crawling out was the only option bar taking the pack off.  A man from the radar station had been monitoring my sluggish progress and took pity on me.  He called me over for a cup of tea from his thermos and told me he liked my style.
 

Looking back at Cross Fell.
 

Next it was up and over Green Fell...
 

...before dropping down into Dufton, to find that there was no accommodation anywhere.  Luckily a lady from the YHA gave me a lift into Appleby where I stayed at the upmarket Tufton Arms Hotel.  It had been a savage day physically, and I was starting to wonder if I would complete the PW if there was going to more snow days like this.
  

After getting a lift back to Dufton from the hotel owner...I made the climb up to High Cup Nick.  Tragically it was all in the clouds.  I was gutted.  The snow wasn't so bad though thankfully. 


Cauldron Snout and the River Tees.

 
Cow Green Dam.
 







Looking for a place to wildcamp on Lingy Holm.
 

Managed to find a lil spot right by the river away from the cliffs.  I thought the sound of the river might mess with my sleep, but it didn't bother me at all.

Monday, 12 March 2018

Pennine Way in Pictures, Part 1

Leaving Kirk Yetholm.  I hope the car will still be there when i get back!


Into the Cheviots.  Cold wind-chill...could feel my face freezing up at times.
 

First Night.  Lil nippy.
 

Western shoulder of the Cheviot.
 

Windy Gyle.
 

Mozie Law. 


Sprinkling of snow overnight with heavy winds.  Trailstar did well. 


Over the moorland hills to Byrness, where i stayed at the Forest View Walker's Inn.  The owners were just the best...letting me stay in their bunkhouse out of season, getting it warm for me, and cooking me a lasagne.
 
Graveyard at Byrness.


Redesdale.


Endless forestry track through Redesdale Forest.


How i felt after that track.


Heading up Whitley Pike.  First navigation error of the walk happened soon after this was taken.


Camped out at quarry near Abbey Rigg.

 
Bellingham.  Time to buy some supplies.
 

Bridge over the North Tyne at Bellingham.  Had a cuppa here.
 




Warks Burn.
 

Camped out on Ground Rigg.
 

Boggy forestry paths.
 

Nice lil place for a wildcamp.
 

Haughton Common.
 

A very rare lunch stop in Wark Forest.
 

Rapishaw Gap from below.  The Pennine Way joins Hadrian's Wall here.
 

Rapishaw Gap from above.
 

Crag Lough.
 

Sycamore Gap.
 

Ah...there's that most photographed tree in Britain.
 

...cough.


Remains of a Milecastle.
 

Camped out on Green Slack, the highest point on Hadrian's Wall.
 

Night gathers, and now my watch begins...
 

Soon as i get in me shelter, first thing i do is get me boots and socks off, and apply some Badger Balm.
 

Snow and accidentally shat me long-johns.  Didn't get out in time...
 

Caw Gap.
 







View from Walltown Crags.  Greenhead not far away now, where i stayed at the Greenhead Hotel.  After a few nights in the field... hotels are like heaven.  Soooo good.

Thursday, 8 March 2018

Pennine Way Video


I was feeling a bit flat in life, so I needed a challenge to make me feel like a man again.  The Pennine Way, with a 50lbs rucksack in winter, felt like just the ticket.

It had been over 20 years since I had done a long distance path, the Pembrokeshire Coast Path, averaging 20 miles a day.  From more recent experience though, I knew I would never be able to replicate that.  My expectations before setting out were to do at least 10 miles a day.

Little prep was needed….I had 10 packs of Summit to Eat dehydrated food and 20 Clif bars.  This was my food reserve…to be used on days where I wouldn’t pass a shop.  Packing was just a case of systematically going through all my boxes of gear and selecting what I thought I would need.  Needless to say…I did take some items that never got used.

Leaving the car at Kirk Yetholm, I started walking into the Cheviots, unsure if I would make it or not.